What to Do in Cambará do Sul in the Rain or Fog

Cambará do Sul sits 192 km from Porto Alegre, in the region known as Campos de Cima da Serra. The town is the gateway to Rio Grande do Sul’s main canyons, known as the “Land of the Canyons.”

It’s home to South America’s largest cluster of canyons, and without a doubt, a fantastic town for taking in nature. The town is small, with 6,400 residents according to IBGE (2020), and like others in the region, it’s one of the coldest towns in the state, and in Brazil.

The town’s name comes from Tupi-Guarani and means “rough-bark leaf,” referring to a tree native to the region, which you can see in the town’s central square, in front of the church.

There are two canyons in town, Itaimbezinho and Fortaleza. In early 2021, the parks were privatized, and as a result, admission fees began in October. They’ve promised better infrastructure and access, as happened at the Iguaçu Falls National Park and Rio de Janeiro’s Corcovado. The company Urban won the concession, and it’s the same company that runs Parque Ibirapuera in São Paulo.

Unfortunately, we visited in spring, and we hit fog, cold, and rain every day, and when the weather turns like that, there’s no way to actually see into the canyon. Locals call this phenomenon “viração.” So whenever you hear that word, it means there’s nothing to see at the site. Which brings us to our next topic.

Example of what the canyon looks like during a viração

When to Go to Cambará do Sul

The warm season lasts six months, from October through April, meaning it’s hot, with the sky nearly always overcast, giving a muggy feeling, and heavy rain especially in summer — you might catch clear canyon views in the morning some days, with rain and fog in the afternoon, or fog all day.

Winter is short, cold, and dry, but in exchange, the sky is nearly always clear. Unfortunately it only lasts a bit over two months, from May 14 to July 27, letting you enjoy the mountain chill — this is the best time to visit the region, between mid-April and late September, to actually see the canyons open, during what’s known as mountain season.

Since we hit plenty of rain, fog, and muggy weather, we’ll share our tips for what to do if you run into the same conditions.

How to Get to Cambará do Sul

Access is possible from Porto Alegre, 185 km away, or Gramado, 113 km away. There’s also a route through Santa Catarina, via Praia Grande, at the base of the mountains, 285 km from Florianópolis. From there, you’ll need to climb the Serra do Faxinal.

How Long to Stay in Cambará do Sul

That obviously depends on which activities interest you, but to comfortably see both canyons plus the Rio do Boi trail, or head to Praia Grande, plan on 3 full days — if you don’t want to do every trail, two days should be enough.

Where to Stay in Cambará do Sul

We stayed at Pousada Serra Geral, where the owner, Vera, is extremely pleasant, friendly, and helpful. The room is a good size, the bathroom is equally spacious with hot water, and the owner also runs the gas station next to the hotel.

Breakfast is quite generous, with several kinds of cake, bread, eggs, and jam — we found it really tasty.

Pousada Serra Geral

What to Do in Cambará do Sul

Praça Central: Church, Yellow House, Town Sign, and “Moon Sequoia”

Downtown Cambará do Sul and its main street are both quite small, but it’s worth seeing the central square, home to the tree that gives the town its name, and the town sign, a fun photo spot.

The square is also home to the Igreja Matriz São José and a “moon sequoia,” which, according to a plaque, sprouted from seeds carried aboard the “Apollo 14” mission, germinated in lunar-flown soil. They returned to Earth in 1971 and were distributed to various countries around the world, with one making its way to Cambará do Sul.

Beside the square stands an old yellow wooden house from the 1960s, now serving as Cambará’s Cultural Center, with objects telling the town’s story.

There’s also the Casa do Turista, the tourist information center, open daily from 8 AM to 6 PM, on Avenida Getúlio Vargas, 1720.

Praça Central: church, yellow house, town sign, and “moon sequoia”

Buy Jams or Ice Cream at Sabores da Querência

Sabores da Querência (Instagram) is that cute little spot worth checking out, with jams, preserves, and ice cream made by the owners, who measure the fruit’s natural sugar content and add only what’s needed.

The property spans 15 hectares, and you can tour the fruit orchards used in the jams, go horseback riding, and feed the sheep. Vico, the owner, is from Rio and moved south in 1995. His wife, Cláudia, is a native gaúcha, and both are lovely to chat with, especially about the region.

It’s a genuinely pleasant spot to visit regardless of the weather, so that’s our tip.

Sabores da Querência, Cambará do Sul - RS

Horseback Riding in Cambará do Sul

There are several spots for horseback riding, and we booked a 1.5-hour ride for R$90.00 at Cabanas do Casarão — the space is great, with a café for anyone waiting, and you get to ride through beautiful fields taking in the region’s natural beauty.

Horseback ride at Cabanas do Casarão

Eat at Restaurante Estância Felicidade

Restaurante Estância Felicidade (Instagram) is a great choice any day, and it also has a 2 km trail leading to two waterfalls, for R$20.00 per person.

The food here is spectacular, with delicious meat, char-grilled vegetables, salad, squash, sausage, ribs, and rosemary potatoes for R$105.00 per person, dessert included — a grilled banana with dulce de leche, simply spectacular. And the owner, Carlos, is an extremely warm and attentive host!

There are also cabins on site if you’d like to stay in the area. For lunch, you’ll need to book with Carlos through Instagram, and there’s a set arrival window.

Dining room at Restaurante Estância Felicidade

Waterfalls at Estância Felicidade

Food at Estância Felicidade

Where to Eat Downtown in Cambará do Sul

De Gusta Restaurante (Instagram) is a pleasant spot, casual, with karaoke and good food — the sandwiches are huge, so come hungry, though if you’re watching your diet, there’s also meat with salad and zucchini.

They have gourmet dishes and good dessert options, with sandwich prices ranging from R$22.00 to R$40.00.

Restaurante De Gusta, Cambará do Sul

If the Weather Cooperates

Here are our tips for the classic experiences in the region! As the title suggests, we didn’t get good weather ourselves, so these photos were shared with us by a couple of friends!

Cânion Itaimbezinho

Cânion Itaimbezinho is the town’s postcard landmark and also the most visited canyon in the region. Its walls stretch 5.8 km, plunge 720 meters deep, and span 600 meters wide, located inside Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra, 18 km from downtown Cambará do Sul, at km 18 of RS-429.

The road is unpaved all the way to the canyon, so it’s a good idea to bring a higher-clearance or 4x4 vehicle, since there are plenty of potholes along the way. Itaimbezinho has 3 trails. Two are on the upper rim: the Trilha do Vértice, 1.4 km round trip, and the Trilha do Cotovelo, 6 km round trip. The third runs through the lower part of the canyon, in Praia Grande (SC), known as the Trilha do Rio do Boi, which passes through the canyon floor itself.

Tickets: admission fees began on October 1, 2021. The price is R$35.00 per person per day for access to both canyons, Itaimbezinho and Fortaleza, plus R$20.00 for parking. The Rio do Boi trail, accessed via Praia Grande, isn’t charging yet, though they plan to eventually, with no date or price set at this time.

For two days, the rate is R$55. This pricing applies for the first three months. Starting December 1, 2021, it rises to R$50.00 per person for one day, and R$80 for two days.

Cânion Itaimbezinho

Cascata das Andorinhas at Cânion Itaimbezinho

Cânion Fortaleza

Cânion Fortaleza sits inside Parque Nacional da Serra Geral, at km 22 of CS-012, considered one of the most beautiful in Brazil. The road here is also unpaved and full of rocks. Ideally, bring a vehicle suited for difficult terrain, or hire a guide.

Spanning more than seven kilometers long and two wide, this fantastic natural formation reaches a height of 1,240 meters above sea level. The name Fortaleza (“Fortress”) comes from its walls, which resemble fortress ramparts.

It has three trails: the lookout trail, where you can take in the canyon’s grandeur and, on clear days, part of the Rio Grande do Sul coastline, 3.5 km round trip; the Cachoeira do Tigre Preto trail, where the waters of the Rio Segredo plunge down, 2 km round trip.

The third trail leads to Pedra do Segredo, a rock formation 5 meters tall and 30 tons, balanced on a base just 50 centimeters wide — it continues from the Cachoeira do Tigre Preto trail, and after about 500 more meters, you’ll spot the rock.

Tickets: as explained above.

Cânion Fortaleza, Cambará do Sul - RS

Cânion Fortaleza

Trilha do Rio do Boi

As mentioned, this trail is located in the lower part of the mountains, in the municipality of Praia Grande, Santa Catarina, and the route runs through the inside of Cânion Itaimbezinho. It’s the longest and most difficult trail in Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra, and you’re required to go with a certified park guide.

Spots are limited and genuinely hard to book — guides handle registration, so we’d recommend going through a larger agency, since some individual guides can be disorganized and either miss the registration window or fail to get you signed up.

Another issue is rainy season, since it raises the river level, making the crossing impossible — the trail runs 14 km round trip, crossing the river several times and winding through plenty of rocks.

The hike takes about 5 to 7 hours. In summer, you can swim in the waterfalls’ natural pools along the way.

From Praia Grande, you can also take a hot-air balloon ride for canyon views, another way to experience the region — prices range from R$639.00 per person on group flights, to R$2,490.00 for two people, up to R$5,640.00 for up to 6 people on an exclusive flight.

Read more about our trip in Ausentes, Urubici, and Bom Jesus.